The 46th edition of Filo, the International Yarns and Fibres' Exhibition, in Milan, Italy showcased interesting textile innovations, to an increasing number of foreign buyers. Paolo Monfermoso, general manager of Filo, says, "The 46th edition of Filo has closed in a positive atmosphere. Visitors' flow has been constant and higher compared to expectations. Not just our data confirms that, but also our exhibitors report their satisfaction with the results achieved at the 46th edition of Filo; they have received buyers who demonstrated a real interest for the collections on show. In our effort to confirm and expand the role of Filo as fair of reference for yarns for weaving within the international panorama, we have been working together with ITA-Italian Trade Agency.
As usual, during this edition ITA has promoted the presence of a delegation made up of foreign buyers coming from Japan, France, UK, Spain, Turkey, Lithuania, Portugal, USA and Belgium. The 46th edition has been also the opportunity to start reflecting together with exhibitors on possible changes on the agenda of next editions, considering the decision to anticipate the fall event of Milano Unica in July.
Our decisions in this regard will arise from a global assessment of market's needs of companies, within the context of a supply chain which should be more and more cohesive, as asked by Sistema Moda Italia and as the same undersecretary of State Ivan Scalfarotto has restated in its message to Filo." The 46th Filo edition, dedicated to "Luxury Revolution" from a stylistic point of view, has been officially inaugurated through the conference 'Il Filo del Design', which has been organised by Filo in partnership with ITA-Agency and Sistema Moda Italia. The core of the debate was about strategies for companies' development and internationalisation, starting from innovation and enhancement of Made in Italy, focusing also on the rediscovery of the archives of textile companies.
During his speech, Carlo Piacenza, president of Unione Industriale Biellese, stated, "Textile industry is complicated, with a long production process, but its different sectors are demonstrating to be able to communicate and work as a team. On the other hand, the intact supply chain is a fundamental competitive advantage and allows the Italian textile-apparel industry to continue inventing and innovating".
Michele Scannavini, president of ITA-Italian Trade Agency, rested on the concept of the supply chain as a competitive advantage, "As far as the concept of supply chain is concerned, Italy manages to build strong competences along the entire value chain. Within spinning sector, creativity and innovation emerge above all, that is to say those features which more than anything else distinguish Made in Italy worldwide".
According to Marco Bardelle, president of PoinTex, the starting point is the question "Which is the future we envisage for textile companies? It is a future growing on unthinkable and sustainable innovations, to let Italy continue to grow. However, companies must believe in the value of innovation, while governments should make red tape simple for those people who try to innovate".
Satisfaction for business carried out during this 46th edition of Filo emerges from commentaries of exhibitors. Roberto Rimoldi from Filatura Luisa expressed his satisfaction, "Despite being a season not particularly strong for us, the exhibition performs well, with a number of clients in line with the equivalent edition. However, the number of foreign visitors has grown, coming from European countries and Japan. Nevertheless, buyers are qualified and they have been selected well. Our naturals collection has been particularly appreciated, for its high content of research".
Paola Rossi, from Botto Poala, says that "We are satisfied with the trend of these two days of Filo. We met many buyers, both Italian and foreign ones, European and Japanese in particular. We have not just met clients, but also new buyers, confirming that Filo is a proactive exhibition. In particular, our colour card, very huge also in the basic collection in wool and silk, has been appreciated. The processing H2Dry – one of our patents – continues to stir curiosity and attention since it gives comfort and performance to garments".
Vincenzo Caneparo from Davifil: "We are very satisfied with the number and the quality of visitors we received during the fair. We have met new possible clients, most of whom comes from Europe. Filo confirms that it is a very high standard fair. Buyers especially appreciated natural yarns, and this indicates an increasingly attention for products' quality and eco-friendly production." Giovanni Marchi from Marchi & Fildi said that, "During this edition, we have received several visits, despite being concentrated in a short time of the two working days. We have seen many clients, both consolidated and new ones, Italian and foreign ones, especially French. Buyers demonstrated special interest on research items, they appreciate new proposals and products that innovate compared to usual ones. Our yarns dedicated to higher market range raise curiosity. Our company sees service as a constant research for innovative products, but also as an accurate organisation of techniques and business structures, trying to satisfy the client totally".
Cesare Savio from Südwollegroup-Safil says: "A very positive Filo edition. This is the first time that Süedwolle-Safil shows a fully integrated collection. Clients demonstrated huge interest for the proposal of adaptable and comfortable yarns for weaving".
Smart textile innovations at Filo Milan
Leading experts in the textile industry exhibited their latest products and innovations at the 46th edition of the Filo Milan trade fair for yarns and fabrics.
Monocel, a designer and distributor of high-end top dyed yarns under the Monocel brand, showcased its potential and how it can represent the next generation of smart cellulosic yarns. The company exhibited its Monocel yarns in a range of jersey and woven fabric innovations.
Monocel is a new generation of smart and responsible lyocell-from-bamboo yarns. These developments represent a new option in eco-responsible yarns, with a unique colour range delivered through an Ultrasonic Natural Plant Dyed process, the company reports.
High tech top dyed yarns
Monocel Ultrasonic Plant Dyed yarns is a family of high tech top dyed yarns. They combine the latest advanced dyeing technology with ancient coloration materials. The company says it believes it is also one of the most advanced water saving techniques available. The patented process uses liquid plant dyes in the new ultrasonic 'attachment' technique for a high level of colour fastness, with encouraging improved efficiencies in energy and emissions reductions through lower temperatures and shorter dyeing times.
By combining Monocel with natural plant dyes, the company says it has achieved a beautiful colour range that is unique to the ultrasonic process and offers yarns that are completely non-toxic and gentle to the skin. The dyes are based on traditional Asian medicinal roots, fruits and flowers. Yarns come in pure Monocel or blended with GOTS certified organic cotton, spun in Siro-Compact, and Compact formats for the finest yarns. White bleached yarns use the more environmental Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) process.
Ecotec by Marchi & Fildi
Marchi & Fildi, a leading spinner and provider of cotton based yarns for the textile industry, presented its Ecotecyarn, made in Italy and produced by an exclusive traceable and certified production process that transforms pre-dyed textile clippings into a 100% cotton yarn with record savings in water and energy consumption, according to the manufacturer. According to the company, Ecotec is the new generation of smart cotton. Thanks to the exclusive Marchi & Fildi process, the redundant remnants from the fashion system's garment production are recovered and transformed into Ecotec yarns, making it possible to use less resources while maintaining the quality standards.
Some companies decided to become Ecotec accredited partners by signing the Ecotec policy that makes them active part of the Ecotec marketing and communication activities. These include Euromaglia S.r.l, Lana Reale, Manifattura CBM, Tessuti & Tessuti srl, Tintex Texteis Sa, and Karalis Sa. Ecotec is a refined and versatile yarn that is suitable for woven and jersey fashion fabrics, as well as for knitwear and hosiery. This year Ecotec by Marchi & Fildi will present two product lines at Filo, including Ecotec Innovation, a line of smart solutions created by the R&D department of Marchi & Fildi, in co-operation with a textile style office; and Ecotec Collection, an exclusive range of Ecotec fabrics made by accredited Ecotec partners.
Re.Verso and Filatura C4
Filatura C4: Re.Verso partner of excellence for smart wool yarns for contract and woven fabrics for fashion, presented its exclusive A/W 2017/2018 collection at Filo Milan. "Thanks to a shared philosophy and dedication to sustainable manufacturing and business, both companies have collaborated, with the support of C.L.A.S.S., to present a new dimension in eco-smart re-engineered wool based yarns, signed Re.Verso by Filatura C4, now especially targeted for the contract market," said Alessio Catani, Managing Director of Filatura C4.
Re.Verso is a new textile platform that works together with its textile partners to produce a fully integrated, 100%, Made in Italy textile collection. With a dynamic approach to production, Re.Verso aims to make its products in a responsible manner, utilising fully traceable materials and processes that are also 100% Made in Italy. The supply chain is based on pre consumer clippings, never used, given by the best Italian and international brands/producers of the fashion industry. The system is said to allow great savings in terms of energy and water consumption and CO2 emissions as certified by the LCA (Life Cycle Assessment). The system is also certified Global Recycling Standard (GRS), ISO 9001 and SA8000.
Botto Poala is up to all sorts of colours
With a wide range of metric counts and twists, the fancy yarns included in the Botto Poala Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia collection are suitable for three-dimensional effects and gather and rough surfaces (cordonnets, mouliné three ply, stretch, frisé, mousse and many others). By means of technology and dyeing skill Botto Poala Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia has the opportunity to follow a new emerging trend: the "dress monochrome" – here comes the precious yarn Re.Active with H2Dry treatment for the shirt; jacket, pants and jersey are of the same colour.
As for colours, a wide and varied palette is used colour card to accompany the various trends of the season. Black and white, brown and cold rusks, cold beige and gray for the more classic dress which combines the bleu. Primary colours are combined with white. Daring combinations with strong colours, hot and cold in harmony with each other. Pink, soft blue, cold, green, and violet as accents.
"Recycled" cotton by Cotonificio Olcese
More than one hundred years ago Vittorio Olcese founded in Piancogno – a little village in Valle Camonica – Cotonificio Francesco Turati, nowadays Cotonificio Olcese. After more than a century of activity in cotton spinning, Olcese has been addressing an ever more qualified and demanding market, paying special attention to quality and service for its customers. New investments have strengthened the production of high quality-range yarns, spun with compact technology in order to face the new market challenges.
Cotonificio Olcese is not only sensitive in terms of customer satisfaction: its primary aims are respect for environment and sustainability. A detox campaign which Olcese has being supporting, has become a part of the industry’s thinking and producing, paying special attention to the elimination of all dangerous substances from the production cycle.
In a context of sustainability, Olcese presented a new article called "Recycled", which is composed by 60% recycled and 40% raw cotton. This article is developed in a melange version, along with the new "eco cotton" (100% organic cotton yarn) for which a new shade-card is available.
Monticolor, a further step on the road to sustainability
Monticolor showcased Bio-Recycled: an eco-innovative yarn which combines the features of organic cotton to the advantages of recycled PET, maintaining high quality standards. The new yarn is GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified. Bio-Recycled is part of the Colours for Life project, created by Monticolor in 2008: specific products in which care for the environment, respect for mankind and economical sustainability coexist, through GOTS certified productions.
In 2016 Monticolor was honored with the title of Detox Greenpeace Leader, with a precise programme aiming at eliminating the dangerous chemical emissions from Monticolor production chains within 2020.
Fil3, the softness of Tencel, the brightness of linen
Among products presented by Fil3 at the 46th edition of Filo, a new yarn deserve special attention. It is a mix of linen and Tencel. The resulting yarn has the softness of Tencel and the endurance, flexibility and shine of linen. The colour palette is wide, with mélange colours in the Nm 1/26 count Why Fil3 focuses so much on Tencel? Tencel, a fibre produced from cellulose shattered dissolved in NMMO-monohydrate. Its main features are the excellent resistance, good breathability and moisture absorption.
The production process is less polluting: the solvents used are non-toxic and are completely recyclable. Although the Tencel is biodegradable, if is placed in a landfill, it does not decompose completely. In any case, studies show that it appears that it is able to decompose in only 8 days in certain environments. For its particular features, Tencel fibre is a very good raw material for the textile industry (clothing, technical fabrics, furniture).
A greenhouse of ideas by Südwollegroup-Safil
Discovering the Südwollegroup-Safil Spring- Summer 2018 collection, which debuted at the 46th edition of Filo, is like entering a greenhouse full of the light, colours and textures emanating from the innovative new yarns.
According to Südwollegroup-Safil, the greenhouse is the ideal place to nurture creativity and help ideas blossom into yarns made from noble natural fibres – mohair, linen, hemp and silk – treated to enhance performance and blended with innovative advanced technology. The greenhouse is a protected microcosm where top quality yarns are developed with loving care to become the protagonists of an exclusive fashion concept. As usual, Südwollegroup-Safil showcased a wide range of yarns, including its renowned collections Mohair, Linen & Hemp, Silk, Active Lux and Shirt.
Great versatility for Tessitura Lascialfari
Tessitura Lascialfari showcased at Filo leno fabrics where, thanks to the many assemblies available in stock, the firm can respond promptly to the changes required by the market.
In addition to presenting its own collection, Tessitura Lascialfari works in co-operation with its customers to develop and produce sample collections and regular production runs. While the firm is mainly co-operating with producers of woven fabrics, it has been working for many years also with yarn manufacturers interested in improving their own products, presenting the finished yarns made up into woven fabrics.
The effect of oppositions in Pozzi Electa collection
Pozzi Electa proposed a search for new ideas and effects that attract interest in a collection played on opposites of shiny and matte, coarse and fine, smooth and effected. In the collections by Pozzi Electa the nature and the sustainability are always in first place, without forgetting the practicality of technical and innovative fibres.
The luxury of harmony for Ongetta
The new collection by Ongetta presents new yarns that reveal an immediate link to the luxury fashion world. For the 46th edition of Filo, Ongetta has decided to divide the new collection into three main topics.
The first topic are the silk frisottins, which emphasise their characteristics through the torsion and the retraction giving to the fabric a solid structure. The second topic focuses on emphasising the cleanliness of the pure white and the union of natural and light fibres such as silk, linen and cotton. In the last, we find yarns highlighting the brightness of the wet effect, light points obtained by a very thin lamé and through the union of trilobal fibres and natural yarns.
Through its new collection, Ongetta wants to convey a desire of harmony and innovation, as expressed through the succession of the seasons.